Eight years ago, Burma’s long-time former leader took the country
by surprise when he decided to move the capital city to a patch of land
300km north of the previous capital, Rangoon. But his grand plans to
attract international investors to a new, state-of-the-art capital now
appear to have been over-ambitious: its multiple-lane highways and
shopping malls are practically empty. Our Observer has just got back
from a visit to his country’s capital city.
General Than Shwe christened his new capital ‘Naypyidaw’, which means ‘royal city of the sun’
in Burmese. After initially being closed-off to foreign tourists and
journalists, overseas visitors have been allowed in freely since 2011.
But the city is yet to make a name for itself on the tourist map:
visitors are not exactly coming in droves and their movements are
closely watched by suspicious security guards.
Naypyidaw is being built from scratch.
The General had hoped the multiple-lane motorways, chic shopping malls,
sports stadiums and classy hotels would raise Burma’s international
profile. The fancy attractions are in sharp contrast to daily life in
the rest of Burma. The IMF estimates
annual income per head in Burma is 834USD – the lowest in Southeast
Asia. One of the city’s centre pieces is the large, golden, Uppatasanti Pagoda, a replica of Rangoon’s famous Shwedagon Pagoda.
The pristine Thingaha Hotel in Naypyidaw. Photo taken by France 24 Observer, Aye Khine
Contributors
“I felt like I was in another country”
Our Observer
Aye Khine (not his real name) is a Burmese journalist who lives in
Rangoon. He visited Naypyidaw to get a glimpse of daily life there.
Naypyidaw is totally different from the rest of the cities in
Burma. I felt like I was in another country. It is sad to see a group of
people living in such comfort in a modern city, while the majority of
Burmese people live in poverty.
Despite the city being so clean and modern, there are very few
vehicles and motorbikes on the roads because few ordinary people live
there. It’s too expensive for most Burmese people. I saw one or two cars
and just a few motorbikes on the superhighways. The road leading to the
parliament buildings has twenty lanes, but it’s empty. The government
claims the city has a population of 900,000, but I don't believe it.
20-lane deserted superhighway leading to the parliamentary buildings. Photo taken by France 24 Observer, Aye Khine
Hotels in Naypyidaw are expensive. The prices start at 35 US
dollars and up to 200 dollars per night. Most foreign people who go to
Naypyidaw are world leaders, business people and NGO workers. Big
political and economic events as well as international meetings are held
in the city.
Many people were surprised by the move as there’s no obvious
interest in building a capital city there. Naypyidaw is hotter than
Rangoon in summer and the weather is a bit crazy, especially in the
monsoon season, as sometimes it rains all day while sometimes there’s no
rain at all.
Rumours have it that Than Shwe's astrologer advised him to relocate
to a safe haven, fearing coastal Rangoon could come under foreign
attack.
Solitary motorbikes travel through Naypyidaw. Photo taken by France 24 Observer, Aye Khine
Members of Parliament [MPs] don't like the new capital much because
it is far a way from their families and it is difficult to get around
the city as there aren’t many taxis and there are few places to go for
entertainment. They have to leave their homes to attend 3-month-long
parliamentary sessions two or three times a year. Most live permanently
in Rangoon and stay in government-run hotels while in Naypyidaw.
MPs weren’t involved in the decision to move the capital in
Naypyidaw: it was Than Shwe's idea. But they don’t complain about that
openly.
Zabu Thiri Hotel in Naypyidaw. Photo taken by France 24 Observer, Aye Khine.
Ref: http://observers.france24.com/content/20130904-trip-burma%E2%80%99-empty-palace-city
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